Discovered a great bar this evening, everything hung with blackened cobwebs, and coated in a grimy layer of nicotine.
Old guys with weathered brown faces, white stubble poking through, more gaps than teeth.
Barrels stacked up against the walls, and the vino dispensed from plastic bottles without labels, innocuous on the counter top, or from the vintage fridge, if you are drinking white.
At €1 a glass, no one was complaining, least of all me.
Sadly there are not many bars around like this any more, the few that have escaped the makeover and modernisation, perhaps to make them more palatable to the tourists.
Seems to me they're making a big mistake.
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