The waiter weaves between the yellow plastic tables and chairs set out randomly on the sand beneath the MasterCard emblazoned parasols, dancing to the samba playing over the beach-bar sound system. It's September the seventh, Brazilian Independence day, and people are taking advantage of the holiday, relaxing on the beach.
I hear the sound of timbales, and look around to see that it’s the waiter again, tapping his metal tray.
Someone else bangs on an empty plastic tub, which passes for a tom-tom, with a similar instinctive feel for the rhythm. I get the feeling we're one-step away from an impromptu jam session.
A stray dog strolls over and lays down in the shade between where I am sitting and a young couple at the next table. Their small boy is playing in the sand and he obviously thinks that this latest arrival has turned up purely for his amusement alone. He pours two hand scoops of sand over the snoozing animal. His mother gently chastises him, and the dog cranes his neck up to see what the problem is now.
A little while later the owner is less worried about upsetting the dog's feelings, giving it a swift kick in the ribs and a "shoo" to send it on its way.
Meanwhile the sparrows flit and dart from place to place, deftly vacuuming up scraps of food, which have fallen onto the sand.
In the air above all this a frigatebird, its wings like semi-collapsed cut-throat razors, slices effortlessly through the air, foraging for food on the shoreline.
Higher still vultures lazily circle, hardly moving a feather, but no doubt keeping an eye on developments below.